Following the road most-cycled on Ambergris Caye

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The evening light was beautiful on Saturday.
The evening light was beautiful on Saturday.

Very late on Saturday afternoon, Rose and I decided to head :30 p.m.)north on the bikes.

No destination. No agenda. No plan other than to ride into the night (which arrives around 5:30 p.m.) and then head for home.

There is one road when you head north from San Pedro. The condition varies from flat and dusty, to rocky and dusty, to very rocky and dusty, to very rocky and lumpy, to BMX-class track.

Perfect for a lazy Saturday evening excursion.

You get the wrong impression of Ambergris Caye from the road. Despite some obvious heartfelt efforts there is trash along the roadside, mostly old plastic water bottles and snack packaging. Here and there is the glimpse of a house or resort or restaurant. Mostly you see long driveways, dusty gates and signs promising something better farther down the driveway.

The first five or six miles north of the bridge, at least, are surprisingly dense with homes, hotels, resorts, condos along the eastern shore.

But the truth is, very little is built to impress on the road, with the exception being the Grand Caribe resort/condo complex, 5 km up the road from downtown San Pedro. It has its entrance and a doorman right along the road.

And as you pass Grand Caribe, you know you could be heading into something impressive. The kind of place that inevitably ends up on House Hunters International when people are looking for a place to live in Ambergris Caye. (And by the way, they always arrive by water, not the road.)

Not that we’ve gone in yet.

The thing is, the road is only one of three ways to head north.The second, of course, is by water taxi.

The third way is the one that reveals the real beauty of Ambergris Caye.

There is a lightly marked, but heavily traveled, trail right along the Caribbean coast.

After riding north on the rugged road for about five miles — or, as much as our kidneys could take — we veered east on to the beach trail as the sun was beginning to set.

I could wax on about how beautiful it is to pedal south on the beach trail, how stunning the view is, how really interesting many of the resorts and homes look but I just don’t think I’m up to it just yet.

We’ll of course head back at some point and I’ll spend more time documenting the experience. But last night, we were just out for a ride and I happened to take a few pictures, which I’m posting here.

It is obvious that everyone who builds on the coasts puts their most money into the beach-side presentation. And for that I thank you.

We’re still newbies here, so everything is a discovery but I suspect the ride along the coast will never grow old.

So, for what it is worth, here are a few snaps from last night. The last on is the iconic Palapa Bar, where we had to stop of course for a few drinks to wash the sand and dust from the throat.

While we were there, Rose “re-installed” Magic Marker inscription posted there four years ago by our neighbors and friends Scott and Anna on their honeymoon. It had long ago been removed or overwritten. (All patrons are invited to leave their names where ever they find an open space at the Palapa Bar.)

Under the bar, near the left corner, facing the Caribbean, Rose wrote “Scott & Anna 2-14-10 Miss you!”

Long after the sun set we strapped on some LED lights and made our way down the last mile of beach to our home. Very happy. Very content.

Mission accomplished.

So, without any more blah-blah, some photos from last night’s ride south on the beach trail on Ambergris Caye:

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photo (57)

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5 thoughts on “Following the road most-cycled on Ambergris Caye

    Karen Kelly said:
    March 2, 2014 at 2:45 pm

    Oh my word. Beautiful. Thanks for sharing the journey.


    Susan Moore said:
    March 2, 2014 at 3:50 pm

    You make it sound very, very nice. I volunteer for the trash-pickup brigade.


      robertjhawkins1 responded:
      March 4, 2014 at 6:54 pm

      Me too! Wonder if there is a Keep the Caye Clean Campaign?


        Emily said:
        March 4, 2014 at 7:08 pm

        There is not, unfortunately. We picked up trash in front of our condo and would go down the beach with trash bags from time to time — we could fill up several in an hour, easily. Unfortunately, it built back up so quickly from what washed up from the sea that it was a losing proposition and very discouraging. But every bit helps so please feel free! It’s always a good idea to take a bag along on a walk because you WILL encounter trash, whether on the beach or the road. This is one of the things that discouraged me time and time again on the island, especially when I’d see people throw bottles, plastic, etc. down on the ground while biking, walking, or golf carting. There is just not a strong culture of care for the environment there. Education is sorely needed!


    Emily said:
    March 3, 2014 at 8:05 pm

    I miss riding on the beach path! The road, not so much…at least not in rainy season. 😉


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